(Dateline: Moscow, U.S.S.R.)
We are like villagers with pitchforks and torches, and she answers our knock holding an open tin of tuna and a fork. Eyes wide, I am suddenly a Seinfeld impression:
“What are you EATING? I mean WHAT are you eating? I mean… what are YOU eating? Because WE? We are not eating.”
My fellow exchange students nod hungrily, “we found some bread.”
“It took three days!”
“It’s been a week. We can’t just eat bread.”
“There’s a open-air market,” says our program head, fork still poised over tuna, “every Saturday out near the ring road.” There’s a brief discussion of subway stops, and the semi-legal nature of the market. A villager good at directions nods in understanding, and thus satisfied we stow our pitchforks and trek back to our dorm rooms, optimistic enough to double the ration of Chunky Skippy allotted for tonight’s bread.
In the Soviet Union in 1991, whether shopping for souvenirs or for lunch, the American student bought in bulk. The exchange rate (roughly 35 rubles to the dollar that summer) meant that money was never an issue. We joked that everything was “free if you can find it.” (sung to the tune of Madonna’s “Vogue” – often while hunting from store to store for food.)
The problem, of course, was finding it. Sure, we’d heard about long lines, empty store shelves and widespread stealing from state-run businesses (though perhaps we imagined the Capitalists exaggerated). We’d packed toilet paper and peanut butter as instructed, and came prepared for hardships. We carried rope or canvas bags suitable for carting home rare finds. But I walked into a store labeled “supermarket” to find little more than a dozen eggs (some of them bloody inside) and some sad jarred tomatoes. The real food – the real economy – was elsewhere.
Apparently shortages make me a panic shopper – a habit I retain even today, despite the obvious truth that buying in bulk is not a viable strategy for Manhattan apartment dwellers. The day we first encountered a Moscow bakery actually selling bread, I bought three large loaves and rode the subway home hugging them (note: this behavior will make the natives stare). We discovered bottled Pepsi at a tiny stall at the back of Gorkii Park and I bought as many as I could fit in my bag – about 30 clinking glass flagons of tooth-rot, it turns out, if you carry them VERY slowly. I bought toilet paper wherever I found it, though it was the one staple we ran into regularly and it was less effective at its purpose than the writing paper. I also bought 3 copies of Dostoevsky’s The Idiot from a street vendor – I’m still not sure why; let’s imagine the answer is “affinity with the title.”
Real shortage also creates instant community. We were all in this food search together, including the Russian university students who gave us some of their hard-won butter. A great find was cause for a dinner party, and friends arrived bearing whatever they could offer to the cause. It takes a village to make a meal. Perhaps this is Communism’s greatest lesson, because I found this kind of collective spirit rare back home – about as rare as butter in Moscow, which is to say it required a fair bit of luck and a reliable circle of friends.
The Saturday market was horrific and wonderful at the same time. Seeing food in some quantity was such a relief! But I’m a suburban girl, and this market was awfully close to nature for me. The carrots looked like roots, for example, the mushrooms still smelled like shit, and the dead animals were not yet meat. These were, to make things more challenging – my vegetarian years. Veggie students would warn each other about the gruesomeness hanging in stalls ahead, “dead antlered thing around the corner; don’t look left!”
The market was doing a brisk business, as the city’s primary food supply outside of restaurants might expect to do. Being college students, my cohorts and I had been drunk the night before and woke late on Saturday. Being American, we underestimated the lines. It was mid-afternoon by the time we arrived at the outskirts of town. There was a lot of ground to cover and little time left. We split up.
My first errand, for carrots, was a success, even if it left me in awe of the American equivalent – all the same size, free of dirt and covered in plastic. Feeling exuberant, I did the truly Soviet thing: I waited in line for potatoes. They were offered for sale piled high in a recycled sandbox filled with loose soil.
I waited and waited.
But they sold the last potatoes and most of the truly convincing potato-shaped balls of dirt to a kerchief-wearing housewife about five people in front of me. I had to report this failure to my classmates, who had mixed results of their own. Nevertheless, we would cobble a few meals together from our haul. Plus, potatoes are good motivation to get out of bed early next Saturday.
Now if only we could find something to cook in…